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Southern Comfort
SOUTH AFRICAN MARLENE
DU PLESSIS-ZÖTL IS THE QUEEN OF RELAXED CUISINE
THE RESTRAURANT KANTINE ON THE Praterinsel exudes a
special warmth, though it may be hard for first-time
visitors to pinpoint-that is, until they meet the proprietress,
South African-born Marlene Du Plessis-Zötl. Tall
with dark, curly hair and a wrap-around smile, Du Plessis-Zötl
is clearly one of those restaurateurs whose charisma
and energy alone create a special abience.
Founder of the Kantine and the Cape Malay Kitchen Catering
Company, Du Plessis-Zötl is the first to admit
that she never intended to stay in Munich. "I had
vacationed here, my bags were packed and I was literally
heading back home," she says, "when I met
the man who is now my husband, here in Munich. "Now,
16 years, two children oand one successful catering
career later, this native of Cape Town is happy to share
her country´s warmth, diversity and culinary secrets
with the city´s residents. "Orginally I wanted
to become a Dolmetscher and travel around the world,"
but Du Plessis-Zötl has no regrets. "Munich
really grows on you - it is so beautiful here-and then,
you just stay. I guess it means the conservative side
of me is coming out."
After a stint at Munich´s Sprachen und Dolmetscher
Institut and a job at a Munich gym, she took the advice
of a fellow expatriate South African who suggested she
start a business, cooking African dinners for parties
and special accasions.
FEISTY AND IMAGINATIVE
Du Plessis-Zötl wasted no time in folowing her
friend´s counsel and in 1995 Cape Malay Catering
was born. At first she organized and catered dinner
parties, but soon her activities extended to film premieres
and other big events. So the word got around. "We
went from being party people working at the Leopold
Fitness Center to running our own catering service for
the film business and private parties overnight."
Du Plessis-Zötl started out cooking in the kitchen
once used by the artists who have their studios on the
Praterinsel, in a corner of the building that was also
at one time a laboratory for the Schnaps distillery,
Riemerschmid. "I learned how to cook at home. I
never took a class. At first I hired freelance chefs,"
she sys of the early days. When the kitchen space became
available to rent, she knew she had to jump at the chance
if she wanted her business to move forward. Hence, in
December 2000, the Praterinsel Kantine came into being
and these days comprises the catering as well as the
small inviting bar and restaurant space (open Mon.-Fri,
11 am-6 pm). Du Plessis-Zötl has always been open
to experimentation and began with Malay and Creole dishes
before moving on to create her own international cuisine.
"Not a lot of Germans knew what Cajun was back
then. I want to make people feel comfortable while allowing
them to try something new, whether they want traditional
Bavarian or something really exotic," she explains.
This imaginative and feisty lady is obviously passionate
about her work. "Malay cuisine is something born
of the diversity in South Africa, of the East Indian
slaves who brought their spices with them, fusing them
eventually with the South African cuisine. The last
time I was in Cape Town, for example, I had a lovely
ostrich Tandoori - but I won´t eat crocodile unless
it´s as pâté."
Speaking of going home, though Du Plessis-Zötl
is not homesick, she does appreciate the relaxed way
of life in South Africa, something she wants to share
with her children. "I go back twice a year and
have been bringing my children (now 8 and 12) with me.
They are now beginning to ask, "Can we live there?"
Of course nowadays the energy is different in South
Africa. It´s a trendy place to travel to. The
mentality now is to prove that we are on the upward
move." Du Plessis-Zötl also doesn´t
mind admitting that she is teased by friends at home
for becoming "too German," meaning, she´s
always trying to organize everything. But, she adds,
"You just can´t make comparisions between
two places - that´s the secret to being happy
in both."
When asked what she sees herself doing next here in
Munich, Du Plessis-Zötl becomes thoughtful. "I
dream of someday being able to open a bigger place,
whre everything is original, and not only the food."
Then, clearly getting into her stride, continues, "Even
the wait staff could war traditional African dress.
Perhaps a musical performance sometime during the week
- that would be nice. But to present aspects of African,
especially South African culture, I need a bigger space.
Maybe in the future we will get there. Now Germans are
saving their money." In the meantime, we can still
stop by the Praterinsel and enjoy the South African
warmth - whether she´s serving Weisswurst and
sushi or kangaroo steaks and crocodile pâté.
<<< Victoria Owen
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